You, reader, need to pay attention to this wine. Traditionalist Barolo of a quality similar to Giacamo Conterno at Â¼ of the price and 10 times the obscurity. It is also the sort of wine that is becoming increasingly difficult to find even as it evokes some of the most haunting aromas possible. Perhaps most astonishingly, Teobaldo (who passed away in 2009) asked wine critics not to review his wines ever, and this request has been respected. As such, this wine has never been scored by a single wine critic or writer in the world. It is perhaps the wisest wine I know. This is the antithesis of old fashioned wine. What does â€˜traditionalistâ€™ mean? Well Cappellano (now Teobaldoâ€™s son Augusto) respects the power of his fruit over the wizardry of the cellar. Incredible attention to detail in the vineyards means much of the work is done once the wine hits the cellar. "Just Grapes"
A referral from one great producer often leads to another equally exceptional producer who, more often than not, shares our particular philosophy. In the case of the Cappellano estate in Serralunga d’Alba in the Langhe, we were introduced to Augusto Cappellano by our friends at the Podere Le Boncie (Giovanna Morganti and family and friends) in Tuscany. Le Boncie and Cappellano participate (along with the Bea family of Umbria and others) in a group known as “Vini Veri”, producers who share an ethic about viticulture and viniculture that is as much philosophical as it is about organic farming. After months of multiple conversations and correspondence amongst and between the participants, we gathered at the Cappellano cantina in late November, 2011 to taste and get to know one another. The result is that we now happily and proudly represent the wines of the Cappellano estate on an exclusive basis in the United States.
Augusto Cappellano is the fifth generation of the family to produce wine from vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba. His great-grandfather, Filippo, acquired substantial acreage there and, in 1870 established the azienda. At his death, his son, Giovanni, an oenologue, continued his father’s work, selling their wine to clients from Liguria through Piedmont. Giovanni’s brother, Giuseppe, was a pharmacist who created the family formula for their famous (then and again now) Barolo Chinato, the Barolo infused with a variety of “medicines”. Giovanni died in 1912 from a tropical fever contracted in Tunisia, perhaps while he was looking for vines that were not susceptible to phylloxera. Giuseppe then retired from his pharmaceutical chores to run the estate and he decided to sell his grapes to the Gancia company, one of the major wine producers in the Langhe. To continue the story, Giuseppe passed away in 1955. Shortly thereafter, Augusto’s father, Teobaldo, who was born and raised in Eritrea, returned to Serralunga to revive the azienda. He rebuilt the cantina and the image of Cappellano as well – this time much smaller in size (four hectares) but far more grand in quality. In his turn, he also produced once again the extraordinary Barolo Chinato using the ancient family recipe, all the while becoming one of the most admired and respected figures in the Barolo district. Augusto now takes the reins and will now place his special mark on the wines of this estate. We are very pleased to begin our collaboration with Augusto Cappellano.
The four hectares of vineyards owned by the Cappellano family are principally in Serralunga d’Alba and are supplemented by a small parcel in the neighboring village of Novello from which Cappellano produces his Nebiolo d’Alba. The vineyards in Serralunga are situated in the Gabutti cru which is on the western slopes of Serralunga at approximately 300 meters altitude. The land is farmed according to organic principles and the production of the wine is accomplished following the credo of “Vini Veri”: indigenous yeasts are relied upon, the use of sulfur is strictly limited, vinification is traditional (long fermentation, extended aging in large, old botte) and the wine is not filtered prior to bottling. The Barolo Chinato is produced by following the family recipe handed down generation to generation. The “medicinal” herbs and spices are ground using a stone mortar and pestle. Both the recipe and the process are family secrets.