The Hexamer 2007 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Beerenauslese smells at once of bright, citric concentration and candied sweetness, but on the palate the impression is overwhelmingly of mandarin orange in pineapple in syrup. Suggestions of spice and brighter citrus notes impinge on the finish of this purely botrytized, polished elixir, but as with many of Hexamer’s nobly sweet efforts, while impressed, I find no handles here to really get a hold of in sizing up its potential or even perhaps its true personality, and it doesn’t excite my imagination or invite repeated sips. That said, my opinion has proven to be a minority one, and those possessed of a more-pronounced sweet tooth or with more faith and patience may find themselves carried away. Certainly I would not fear its decay over three decades in a cellar.