Straw color, transparent and very pale, glints of brassy green. It pours up with a very brief froth and leaves random bubbles behind, but it's petillant, not truly sparkling. Simple, delicate white-fruit aromas focus on a hint of musky melon; light carbonation adds a prickle to the crisp, dry flavor. Simple, sufficient acidity for balance, light in alcohol at just 9 percent, very refreshing. Sealed with a Stelvin-type metal screwcap to retain its clean, fresh character and banish cork taint. Top value for the price - a fine everyday quaff for summer sipping.

FOOD MATCH: Splendid as a refreshing summer aperitif, fine with all manner of shellfish, it was an excellent match with the simple, quick shrimp-and-ham paella featured in the Sept. 6, 2007, 30 Second Wine Advisor FoodLetter. VALUE: A single-digit price might not buy complexity, but at this price it's a whale of a bargain.

WHEN TO DRINK: Soon. Vinho Verde is made to drink young and fresh, and even a year will diminish that a bit, although the sturdy screwcap on more recent bottlings will help preserve freshness.

-30 Second Wine Advisor